The latest watch releasing is the Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Phoenix with five key complications: tourbillon, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, equation of time, and a star chart with astronomical indications. Each complications have their own functions that add up to a whopping 15 complications!

1. Minute repeater
2. Tourbillon
3-6. Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
7. Power reserve
8. Equation of time
9. Sunrise time
10. Sunset time
11. Sky chart
12. Age and phases of the moon
13. Sidereal hours and minutes
14. Seasons, zodiac signs
15. Striking mechanism torque

In the front of the dial, the perpetual calendar, equation of time, as well as sunrise and sunset indicators, along with a tourbillon can be found at six o’clock. The watch’s back includes the star chart, sidereal time, indicator for the season and sign of the zodiac, as well as a torque indicator for the repeater mechanism.

All this is powered by the hand-wound cal. 2755-B1, based on a movement originally unveiled in 2005 for the brand’s 275th anniversary. It has a power reserve of 58 hours and is compromised of 839 parts.

The case is made of 18k pink gold measuring at 47mm in diameter. The largeness of the case gives enough space for the hand-engraving. The most beautiful part about the case is that almost every surface of the case is covered with a phoenix motif, rendered in a style that takes loose inspiration from East Asian art.

The price of the Grand Complication Phoenix (ref. 9700C/003R-B187) is “upon request”, however, going by the SFr2m retail price of a similar watch from 2014, expect this to cost significantly more.

The goal of the Double Balancer collection was to take timekeeping precision to a whole new level.  The Double Balancier uses two fixed oscillators on two different axes on precise, predetermined angles. Because of that, the effects of gravity have less of an effect on the watch, which decreases the margin of error in timekeeping by half, and therefore, maximizing the precision of timing overall.

The crystal case took over 900 hours of machining to create so it allows for an abundant amount of light to pass through. The timepiece features a three-dimensional architecture that is enhanced from every angle. This enhance the look of the dial and the finishes all around. This watch is perfectly executed and even the engraving on the movement itself.

Additional details include black polishing, satin finishing, circular-graining, hand-beveling and a hand-polished blue gold dial. The words “Greubel Forsey” are engraved on two gold plates with the number of each timepiece, while the setting has olive-domed jewels in polished gold chains. Anti-reflective coatings are present on both sides of the crystals for further enhanced transparency as well.

• Displays
  • Hours and minutes
  • Small seconds
  • 4-minute spherical constant differential rotation
  • 72-hours power reserve on a sector
• Case dimensions
  • Diameter – 47.25 mm
  • Height – 13.81 mm
• Water resistance of the case: Water-resistant 3 atm – 30m – 100 ft
• Crown: Synthetic sapphire with engraved GF logo
• Dial
  • Multi-level in gold, blue color, flat back polished
  • Differential rotation and small seconds indicators in gold

The case, in 18kt white or rose gold, measures 46.5mm x 20.8mm. It has a domed AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back and it is water resistant to 30 meters. The three arches that cover and encircle the crown on Histoire de Tourbillon 9 – was inspired by the entrance of Harry Winston’s Fifth Avenue Salon in New York City.

Movement is the Swiss manual-wind Harry Winston in-house caliber HW4504 with 58 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 50 hours. It is comprised of 408 parts, of which 117 are in the tourbillon. The HW4504 caliber was designed exclusively for Histoire de Tourbillon 9. This development guarantees an exceptional degree of exclusivity, since only 20 models total will be made.

Tourbillons: 1 triaxial tourbillon. Internal carriage: 1 rotation in 45 seconds Intermediate carriage: 1 rotation in 75 seconds. External carriage: 1 rotation in 300 seconds. Fast-rotating series-coupled barrels (1 revolution in 3.2 hours),1 barrel fitted with a spring featuring a sliding brace. It features a Phillips terminal curve and Geneva-style stud. Variable-inertia with 18kt gold adjusting screws. Satin-finished and circular-grained mainplate, titanium bridges, circular satin-brushing and microbeading, titanium tourbillon bridges. Functions are: retrograde jumping hours, retrograde dragging minutes, power reserve with hand indication.

It has a beautiful skeletonized dial with hand beveling. The hour and minute hands circle directly above the movement and point to two zones calibrated with Arabic numerals. The power-reserve indicator at 8 o’clock displays a field and a two-part hand that share a distinctly three-dimensional nature.

The timepiece comes on a black alligator leather strap with 18kt rose gold or platinum thread. Matching with the gold Ardillon buckle.

In the video below, NOMOS Glashütte shows how the master watchmaker creates the in-house movement. All of their movements are built in-house and by ourselves in Glashütte. This also applies to their watches—Tangente, Orion, Zürich and all the other models. This short film can give you a first impression of what they do.

The Summit 2 was built with travelers, explorers, businessmen, and performance seekers in mind. You can reply to notifications right from the watch with a number of preset replies or alternatively use the inbuilt keyboard, handwriting, or voice dictation.

The two most important features of the Summit 2 are the pre-installed Timeshifter and Workout Coach apps. The Timeshifter app is approved by NASA and helps frequent fliers negate the effects of jetlag by offering personalised, easy-to-follow plans to reset the body’s circadian rhythm. For example, it will tell you when the perfect time to nap, eat, or rest would be. The Workout Coach is nice for the fitness gurus. It works as a great running companion that tracks your pace, time, and distance.

Most importantly, the biggest upgrade to the new Summit 2 is the battery life. Some hand issues with the Summit 1 which would run out of battery too quick. With the new Summit 2, a full battery life can last 4 to 7 days. To charge the Summit 2, Montblanc includes a magnetic charger that can juice up the battery from 0-100% in less than an hour. To add to the improved battery life, Montblanc also added a battery-saving time-only mode that disables all other smartwatch features, allowing up to a week’s battery life.

The 1.2-inch full circle AMOLED display offers several Montblanc dials, from the classic 1858 to the vintage Summit to the ultra-feminine Bohème Classic. The coolest feature is that you can create your own dial using the watch face configurator. There over a thousand different dials to choose from and design. The case is available in black DLC steel, stainless steel, two-tone steel, and grade 2 titanium. There are 11 straps to choose from to create over 70,000 individual looks.

The Summit 2 is a good companion for people on the go. The 42mm unisex case feels comfortable on the wrist and has the heft of a mechanical watch, and its clean design makes styling a breeze. It is a nice luxurious smartwatch that can time by replying to messages directly from the Summit 2 and other sick features.

The Summit 2 will be available from 15^th October and retails from SG$1,495.00.

Movement

Snapdragon Wear 3100 chipset, Google Wear OS

Case

42mm in steel, black DLC steel, two-tone, or titanium; water resistant to 50m

Strap

Interchangeable straps of rubber, leather, or steel

Many of these movements used in watches could have been around for almost a decade. Others create new innovative watch movements which takes lots of perseverance and dedication. Below, I have a list of the top three watch movements that are very fascinating.

Hublot Caliber HUB 1201

Hublot is known for its very intuitive designs and their technicality. Most importantly, Hublot has been able to keep their success due to fact that they design amazing watches while combining it with a beautiful movement. An example is the caliber HUB 1201, that powers the Big Bang Meca-10. Featuring a ten-day power reserve, this movement was skeletonized , having parts of the movement shown both in the caseback and the dial. This gives an insight from the front and back of the majesty of this movement.

Greubel Forsey 24 Secondes Vision

In the front of this Greubel Forsey is the 24 Secondes Vision, which is one of the most introvert. It almost looks like a regular watch apart from the opening in the dial which shows the 25 degrees inclined tourbillon. When you look at the caseback, it is totally different and a complete majesty. There the tourbillion takes the main stage underneath its crystal dome. It performs its mesmerizing dance every 25 seconds. Crowned by the power reserve indicator, this timepiece can be examined with a loupe and not one flaw will be found.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 849

Many watch movements have a long lasting history just like this caliber 849 by Jaeger-LeCoultre. It was created by both Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin as a manual wind, ultra-thin movement and first offered for sale in the early 1950’s. The movement being only 1.85 millimeters thick, Jaeger-LeCoultre amazed the world by not only skeletonizing the whole movement but also engraving it. They even went as far as opening up the mainspring barrel, decorating it with the brand’s logo. Crafts like this movement really define what Jaeger-LeCoultre stands for.

The Motions Orbital Classic Edition has a different twist than basic timepieces. In this watch, time is depicted by handless system of planetary gears. At each hour mark lays a black diamond that surround the outer edge of the dial. In the center of the dial there is a rotating gear in place and has one spoke singled out to act as an hour hand. The display of the minutes is closely the same as the hour marker with another lager wheel, turning on the central axis. On this timepiece, there is no crown as the time is set via Pita Time Setting Mechanism, which is on the caseback.

The first thing that comes to mind is creativity when I see this timepiece. This is what Pita is based off on, creativity and innovation. Displays like this with such originality and innovativeness appeal to many watch lovers and especially those who appreciate the mechanical movements in a watch. This is a well executed watch created by an independent brand that lays low but still execute with great innovativeness. This Molino Classic is limited to 71 pieces and is priced at €7,750.

Basics:

Case Material: 904 stainless steel
Dial Color: Black night DLC
Indexes: Black diamonds
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black Louisiana crocodile strap

Caliber: Pita W6.6 with planetary gear module
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Bi-directional automatic winding

Available at Pita.